Asghar Farhadi’s The Past at Cannes

Two years ago Iranian film-maker Asghar Farhadi won an Oscar for his Tehran-set family drama A Separation.

Farhadi’s new film, The Past, is set in France and chronicles the return to Paris after a four-year absence of an Iranian man to meet his estranged wife, played by actress Bérénice Bejo of The Artist. He becomes temporarily enmeshed in her world, that of her daughter and the new man in her life.

It’s very developed storytelling of relationships under tension, says the BBC’s Tom Brook.

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The trench: A coat for all seasons

Whether on the street or the silver screen, the trench coat has endured as a fashion staple. Katya Foreman explores its history – and looks to its future.

That the trench coat, one of Britain’s most enduring clothing icons, is intrinsically linked to the rain makes pure sartorial sense. What remains intriguing, however, is the sliding scale of eclectic associations that the garment has accumulated over time.

There is its neutral role as a smart, double-breasted, weather-resistant staple for businessmen; its powerful silver-screen status as the uniform of sly film noir gangsters and wisecracking detectives; and then, of course, its pervy side. Add a pair of stilettos and the belted, buttoned up trench becomes erotically charged, suggesting − just like the kilt – an underlying state of undress. While, in more negative terms, the poor old trench will never be able to shake off its reputation as the go-to uniform for flashers.

Heritage British trench coat brand Burberry, which over the past 13 years has climbed to powerhouse status under chief creative officer − and soon to be chief executive officer − Christopher Bailey, certainly played up the sexy side of the garment in the recent campaign for its Burberry Body fragrance. It featured a reclining Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, totally nude but for a strategically-positioned, open trench coat, recalling Helmut Newton’s iconic images of trench coat- and high heel-clad models from the 1970s.

The trench coat’s name recalls its utilitarian roots as a modern, highly-functional, lightweight garment developed for British officers during World War I to help protect them from the elements on the front line. Two brands hold claim to its invention: Aquascutum, whose trench coats went on to be adopted by Winston Churchill, Cary Grant, Lauren Bacall, Michael Caine and Peter Sellers for his role as Inspector Clouseau in the Pink Panther series; and the aforementioned Burberry, whose celebrity coups range from putting Humphrey Bogart and Audrey Hepburn in their coats (for Casablanca and Breakfast at Tiffany’s respectively), and, decades later, tapping fashion royalty schoolboy Romeo Beckham for a campaign.

Aquascutum, whose trench coats for WWI officers featured removable, buttoned-in linings, had been outfitting officers in raincoats made from waterproof cotton since the mid-19th Century. The house’s founder, John Emary patented the first water-repellent cloth in 1853; the brand’s name comes from the Latin words for water and shield. Certain trench coat aficionados trace the oldest likely trench coat in existence to an 1851 grey showerproof Aquascutum coat worn by Lt Gen Gerald Goodlake during the Crimean war. The garment is said to be preserved at Newstead Abbey in England.

Thomas Burberry patented his own water-repellent fabric, gabardine, a tightly woven twill weave, in 1879. He was reportedly inspired by the weatherproof linen smocks worn by English shepherds and farmers and designed what the fashion house that bears his name claims was the predecessor to the trench, the Tielocken coat (nicknamed ‘the Burberry’), in 1912. “‘A veritable suit of mail’ is how one magazine would describe the gabardine coat,” reads an entry in online fashion resource, Voguepedia. “Maharajas and country doctors alike adored the all-purpose, all-weather garment. ‘Fetch me my Burberry,’ King Edward VII would instruct his valet.”

The classic double-breasted trench coat truly took shape when its shoulder straps (for the attachment of epaulettes or other rank insignia) and D-rings (for holding equipment, such as maps) were added to meet new combat requirements for WWI. Other key features of the coat included ten buttons on the front, waist and wrist belts, wide lapels, a gun flap and raglan sleeves. Its original colour was khaki.

Return of the mac

Another term often used for the trench coat − the mac − points to another strong link to its origins, however, with many attributing its inspiration to Charles Macintosh, a Scottish chemist and inventor of waterproof fabrics who in the 1820s invented the single-breasted, long rubberised raincoat that reportedly influenced Emary and Burberry. The coat was later referred to as the Macintosh, and eventually the Mackintosh, with a ‘k’.  Macintosh collaborated with British inventor Thomas Hancock, founder of the British rubber industry, who in 1843 took out a patent for the vulcanisation of rubber using sulphur, producing a material still used in raincoats and footwear − such as Converse sneakers − today.

The classic double-breasted military-chic trench coat is said to have infiltrated civilian wardrobes following the war, when surplus stock was handed out by the government. Adopted by the well-to-do hunting set and gents in the city, they rapidly became a fashion and film fixture, sported by dashing protagonists of the film noir genre in the 1940s, mainly accessorised with a wide ribbon fedora and a cigarette dangling from the mouth. The look was to resurface in the French New Wave films of the 1960s, such as Le Cercle Rouge and Le Samourai starring Alain Delon, and Le Doulos starring Jean-Paul Belmondo. Other trench-clad heroes include Michael Caine as hardman Jack Carter in the 1971 gangster film Get Carter and Harrison Ford as bounty hunter Rick Deckard in Blade Runner (1982).

A string of leading ladies also embraced the trench coat’s photogenic, architectural lines, including Greta Garbo, and Marlene Dietrich, paving the way for generations of androgynous-chic icons to come, including Audrey Hepburn, Charlotte Rampling and Charlotte Gainsbourg.

A stalwart of the runways, with myriad deconstructed interpretations rolling out season after season, the trench coat undoubtedly has stood the test of time because of its defining features. Yet just as the coat, with its high-tech materials, was revolutionary in its day, offering a modern alternative to the cumbersome greatcoats of yore, it’s important to keep innovating.

Trench warfare

The fate of the two main competing trench coat brands lies in the need to move with the times. Burberry has been transformed by Christopher Bailey and CEOs Rose Marie Bravo and Angela Ahrendts into a multi-billion dollar player, and its meteoric success depends on leveraging the brand’s heritage – it maintains a 'Made in Britain' policy for the manufacture of its trenches – while injecting a new vision. Customers can choose between Heritage and Runway versions, from classic styles in English-woven gabardine or reinterpretations using innovative fabrics like an oxblood velvet-finish vinyl for men or calfskin, screen-printed with black hearts for women.

Not to mention the house’s ambitious social media and marketing strategies, such as the live-streaming of shows and recruitment of a string of hip British muses, from Emma Watson to Tara (son of Bryan) Ferry. Launched in 2009, the brand’s popular blog, Art of the Trench, billed as a “living document of the trench coat,” features series by established image makers, as well as submitted photos, showing members of the public modelling Burberry trench coats. The site is said to have helped fuel the brand’s Facebook fanbase to more than 1m in its first year.

As Burberry’s sales have rocketed over the past decade, Aquascutum’s have nose-dived. The brand was bailed out by current owner YGM Trading but remains under the radar. While its trench coat designs have stayed watertight, the brand is not impervious to the rapid changes of fashion. The lesson? New materials, new colours and new accessories must always be sought in order to keep this handsome design icon in the limelight. The trench coat will always cope with the weather in the streets, but must adapt to the shifting expectations of the international catwalk too.

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Lovelace tells the story behind an infamous porn film

A new film tells the story behind the famous 1970s porn film, Deep Throat, focusing on the life story of its star, Linda Lovelace.

Lovelace looks at the tale behind one of the few porn films to crossover to a mainstream audience.

It also focuses on the life of its star –real name Linda Boreman – examining issues of exploitation and violence as she is cruelly manipulated by her husband and manager, Chuck Traynor.

Amanda Seyfried stars in the title role, while Peter Sarsgaard plays Traynor. Tom Brook talks with the stars of Lovelace about the phenomenon of Deep Throat and the experience of filming the difficult domestic violence scenes.

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Eight films to watch in November 2013

Big Sur

Jean-Marc Barr stars as Jack Kerouac in director Michael Polish's adaptation of the Beat Generation author's autobiographical novel, Big Sur, written as he was struggling with his newfound fame following the success of On the Road. Big Sur chronicles his three trips to a remote cabin, his affair with the mistress (Kate Bosworth) of poet Neal Cassady (Josh Lucas), and his subsequent nervous breakdown. Even after the recent Kill Your Darlings and the film adaptation of On the Road, the Beats go on. Released 1 November in the US. (Ketchup Entertainment)

Behind the scenes: Weird work secrets

Do investment bankers really keep deal details confidential? How do professional poker players keep their cool? What is it like to toil 1.5 kilometres below the surface of the earth?

The answers may be hum-drum to the people in these professions, but there are plenty of behaviours or conditions people take for granted in their offices that would amaze or baffle outsiders.

Israel denies Palestinians shot drone down over Gaza

An Israeli drone has come down in the northern Gaza Strip, with Israel denying Palestinian reports that it was shot down.

The armed wing of Hamas, which controls the Gaza Strip, claimed it had shot down and seized the mini-drone.

But the Israel Defense Forces (IDF) said the crash was the result of a technical fault and the matter was being investigated.

Israel is among the world's biggest manufacturers of drones.

They are unmanned aerial vehicles which Israel uses to gather intelligence and, sometimes, to carry out attacks.

"IDF clarifies, in contradiction to Palestinian reports, that a 'Skylark' tactical mini UAV system crashed earlier today in the Gaza Strip due to a technical malfunction, and was not shot down by Palestinian militants," an IDF spokesperson told the BBC on Sunday.

"The IDF is looking into the matter."

But Hamas said fighters from its military wing, the Izz al-Din Qassam Brigades, had downed and seized the drone.

Hamas sources told the BBC that it came down east of Jabaliya in the northern Gaza Strip.

Los Angeles airport gun suspect charged with murder

 

The man suspected of carrying out Friday's gun attack at Los Angeles Airport has been charged with murder.

Prosecutors say the death penalty could be sought if 23-year-old Paul Anthony Ciancia is convicted. He is in hospital after being shot by police.

A federal US security agent was killed and others wounded in the attack. Police are attempting to establish a motive for the assault.

Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) has now reopened fully.

About 1,550 flights with 167,000 passengers were affected, airport spokeswoman Nancy Castles said.

Indian stock market hits record high

India's main stock index, the Sensex, has hit a record high, propelled by an increased inflow of foreign capital.

The index reached 21,293.88 early on Friday, surpassing its previous high of 21,206 set during the stock market boom of 2008, before closing at 21,196.81.

The rise marks a remarkable turn around from two months earlier, when foreign investors were pulling out money from the country amid worries over growth.

However, some analysts doubted whether the current rally was sustainable.

"I am not too pleased with the way fundamentals are shaping up," said Phani Sekhar, a fund manager of portfolio management services at Angel Broking.

He added that the rally was being driven by only a handful of stocks "which are hopelessly expensive despite fundamentals".

"The liquidity rush is making people accumulate stocks. If fundamentals don't improve or liquidity tapers, then this rally won't have many legs," he said.

Westgate attack: Kenya's 'Little Mogadishu' fears backlash

A cloud of anxiety has engulfed the Somali-dominated Eastleigh suburb of Nairobi as the residents await the outcome of the standoff at the Westgate shopping mall. But many are also angry at the attack and rallying round to help the victims, like other Kenyans.

Eastleigh is a suburb in the east of the Kenyan capital predominantly inhabited by Somalis, drawn from both Kenya and the Somalia, that is popularly referred to as "Little Mogadishu".

It is a big business hub where East African traders come for shopping and is considered to be one of the leading markets in the region.

It is normally a bustling place with everyone from hawkers, retailers and open market traders engaged in various activities to eke out a living.

Following the claim by Somali Islamist group al-Shabab that it was responsible for the shopping mall's attack, some Eastleigh residents are apprehensive that they may be targeted by other Kenyans.

A year ago, there were ethnic clashes between Somalis and other Kenyan communities after a minibus was blown up by militants in Eastleigh, killing at least seven people.

Hakimullah Mehsud: Pakistan Taliban discuss new leader

The Taliban in Pakistan are continuing discussions on who should be their next leader after Hakimullah Mehsud was killed in a drone strike on Friday.

Reports on Saturday that they had made their choice were later denied.

Among the candidates named by local media is a regional commander said to be open to the idea of peace talks.

Pakistan has accused the US of violating its sovereignty. The US State Department referred to Mehsud's alleged role in attacks on US citizens.

Pakistan's security cabinet is expected to meet over the next few days, once Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif returns from a visit to London.

"Every aspect of Pakistan's co-operation and relations with Washington will be reviewed following the situation created after Mehsud's killing," said Interior Minister Chaudry Nisar Ali Khan.

Pakistan protests

Mr Nisar said Friday's strike on Mehsud was "not just the killing of one person, it's the death of all peace efforts."

A Pakistani delegation had been due to fly to the tribal area of North Waziristan on Saturday to meet Mehsud to discuss possible peace talks.

A US state department official said talks with the Taliban were "an internal matter" for Pakistan.

Pakistan has summoned the US ambassador to protest over the drone strike.

Pakistan Interior Minister Chaudhry Nisar Ali Khan: "The Americans have a lot to learn"

The Taliban held their own meeting, or shura, in North Waziristan on Saturday, on the same day as Mehsud's funeral.

Reports circulated that regional Taliban commander Khan Said Sajna had been elected to the top job. However, these were later denied.

Khan Said Sajna is said to be in favour of accepting the government's current offer of talks, says the BBC's Richard Galpin, in Islamabad.

Pakistani Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif had pledged to talk with the Taliban to try to end its campaign of violence, which has left thousands dead in bombings and shootings across the country.

Another apparent front-runner is the commander of the Taliban in the Swat valley, Mullah Fazlullah, whose men shot and almost killed the schoolgirl and campaigner Malala Yousfzai.

Our correspondent describes the Pakistan Taliban as a loose and at times fractious group.

Reaching an agreement on a new leader will test the ability of the senior commanders to work together, he says.

The US had a bounty of $5m on Mehsud's head. The state department described him as the head of the group which planned the failed bombing of Times Square in 2010 and said the Pakistani Taliban have a "symbiotic" relationship with al-Qaeda.

Nazi looted art 'found in Munich' - German media

Nazi looted art 'found in Munich' - German media

A collection of 1,500 artworks confiscated by the Nazis in the 1930s and 1940s has been found in the German city of Munich, media reports say.

Sport

Everton and Tottenham both passed up the chance to go second in the Premier League after a frustrating stalemate.

Roberto Soldado missed with a header from Aaron Lennon's cross as Tottenham had the better of the first half.

The hosts improved after the interval and Everton saw a penalty appeal rejected when Seamus Coleman went down under Jan Vertonghen's challenge.

Tottenham goalkeeper Hugo Lloris played on despite suffering a heavy knock to the head from Romelu Lukaku.

It was a dour game that will raise questions about both teams' hopes of finishing in the top four.

Tottenham, who have scored nine goals in their 10 Premier League games this season, were unable to convert their first-half control into goals, or even clear chances.

Everton were better after the break and they remain unbeaten at home in the league in 2013.

But their carelessness in possession will have concerned manager Roberto Martinez on a day when both defences proved too strong for the opposing attacks.

The first 45 minutes was a perfect snapshot of Tottenham's lack of attacking punch.

They were quickly in the ascendency but were mainly limited to efforts from outside the area, despite their dominance of possession.

After Sandro and Andros Townsend tried shots from long range, Soldado glanced a header wide from Aaron Lennon's cross.

Tim Howard punched away a Kyle Walker free-kick and the Everton goalkeeper also held a low drive from Lewis Holtby as the pressure continued.

Leon Osman broke forward from midfield and thumped over from 25 yards as Everton finally had an effort on goal with almost half an hour gone.

Vertonghen, a major attacking threat surging forward from left-back in the first half, felt he should have had a penalty when he went down under pressure from Coleman.

Soldado was wasteful once again when he lifted over the bar from the edge of the box after a slick passing move just before the interval.

Tottenham defender Vlad Chiriches, who impressed in his third Premier League start since joining from Steaua Bucharest in the summer, pulled off a fine block to deny Kevin Mirallas after a quick Everton break shortly after half-time.

Ross Barkley, left out for the first time in the league this season, came off the bench soon after the hour mark and just missed the top corner with a powerful long-range effort.

In a reverse of the first-half incident, Coleman went down under apparent contact from Vertonghen in the area but referee Kevin Friend was unmoved.

Howard punched away a curling shot from Gylfi Sigurdsson and the delay after Lloris's injury led to nine minutes being added on.

Spurs went the closest late on, with Christian Eriksen's shot being blocked by Phil Jagielka and Sigurdsson dragging wide.

Are bowlers under threat in one-day cricket?

Batsmen have chased down successfully targets of over 300 runs twice in four completed games in the ongoing one-day cricket series between India and Australia. Sports writer Suresh Menon examines whether the bowlers are under threat in the shorter version of the game.

In the early years of one-day international cricket, 250 runs from 50 overs was considered a good score.

Once the asking rate went up to six an over in the chase, it was assumed the game had gone out of reach for the team batting second.

Today, 300 is a par score at most venues, 350 a good one and so long as the asking rate is kept around eight an over, the chase is on track.

Progress? Or its reverse? Is batting in one-day cricket getting too good for its own good? Are the seeds for the elimination of this format being sown by the game's rulemakers?

If a match has twice produced over 700 runs in the India-Australia ODI series, don't blame the rules alone.

Mediocre

We must acknowledge that the two sets of bowlers have been depressingly mediocre.

Even Mitchell Johnson, the man who rattled India's middle order (meaning Suresh Raina and Yuvraj Singh) twice, bowled badly, too short, too wide and too fast.

The day after India chased 350 and won against Australia in Nagpur,South Africa and Pakistan played out a close finish in Sharjah where the two teams combined made only 365.

The rules didn't make this a feast of sixes and fours because the bowling was so superior.

Unlike Test matches which are won by bowlers, one-dayers are won by batsmen.

This is the essential difference between the two formats.

The dice were loaded against the bowler from the start - the assumption then, as now, was that spectators came to watch boundaries being hit rather than the ball beating the bat.

'Plebgate': Officers face fresh inquiry over Mitchell meeting

Officers accused of giving misleading accounts of a meeting with former chief whip Andrew Mitchell are facing an investigation by the police watchdog.

They will also be called back before an influential committee of MPs over evidence they gave to them previously.

The Independent Police Complaints Commission said there were "procedural irregularities" in an earlier probe.

The three Police Federation reps had been told they would face no action over the so-called Plebgate affair.

In September 2012, Mr Mitchell was accused of calling Downing Street officers "plebs" after they refused to let him ride his bicycle through the main gates.

'Misleading answers'

A month later, Mr Mitchell held a meeting in his Sutton Coldfield constituency with Det Sgt Stuart Hinton, Insp Ken MacKaill and Sgt Chris Jones from the federation in an attempt to smooth things over.

After the meeting the officers, who represent rank and file officers in Warwickshire, West Mercia and West Midlands respectively, briefed the media.

A transcript of a recording Mr Mitchell made of the meeting contradicted the officers' account of what was said.

Ch Insp Jerry Reakes-Williams, head of professional standards at Warwickshire and West Mercia Police, carried out an investigation and concluded they had a case to answer for misconduct, but their senior officers disagreed.

Now the Independent Police Complaints Commission (IPCC) has announced it will conduct its own investigation into the officers' behaviour.

Det Sgt Hinton and Sgt Jones have additionally been called to reappear before the Home Affairs Select Committee after being accused of giving "misleading" answers to MPs last month. The committee wants them "to apologise for misleading it".

'Astonishing'

IPCC deputy chairwoman Deborah Glass said: "Evidence given to the Home Affairs Select Committee on October 23 revealed a number of procedural irregularities between the production of the draft and final West Mercia reports.

John Kerry urges 'democracy and stability' on Egypt stop

US Secretary of State John Kerry has called for an end to all violence in Egypt and urged moves to full democracy on his first visit to the country since President Mohammed Morsi was ousted.

"History has demonstrated that democracies are more stable, viable and prosperous than any alternative," he told a news conference.

"With stability comes tourism and investment, and with both come jobs."

He said the US was committed to working with Egypt's military-backed rulers.

Mr Kerry's visit to Cairo was not disclosed by US officials until he landed. It is the first time a US secretary of state has travelled to Egypt on a visit that is unannounced for security reasons.

The BBC's Kim Ghattas, travelling with Mr Kerry, says it is the kind of precaution that characterises trips by US officials to countries like Afghanistan and Iraq.

This is a sign of US concerns about continued instability in the country, but it is also a reaction to the high level of anti-American feeling in Egypt, our correspondent says.

On his six-hour stop Mr Kerry was meeting the interim leaders that assumed control following Mr Morsi's removal in July - President Adly Mahmud Mansour, Prime Minister Hazem el-Beblawi, Foreign Minister Nabil Fahmy and army chief Gen Abdel Fattah al-Sisi.

It is the first stage of a nine-day tour that will take in Middle Eastern and North African countries, as well as Poland.

'Difficult time'

Former President Morsi goes on trial on Monday.

His supporters say he was removed in a coup and is now facing a politicised trial. Human rights groups accuse the security services of acting without accountability.

UK businesses 'want to stay in Europe'

Businesses in the UK would prefer to stay in Europe and reap the benefits rather than leave, according to the CBI lobby group.

"On balance, British business believes it's better to be in the European Union and reform it from the inside," CBI director-general John Cridland told Sky News.

He is to tell his members EU membership is worth £3,000 to every UK household.

The government wants to negotiate a new deal with the EU.

If he can secure a new deal, Prime Minister David Cameron has pledged a referendum on the UK's relationship with the EU by 2017 should the Conservative Party win an outright majority.

At the annual conference for the lobby group on Monday, Mr Cridland is to say that a CBI-commissioned report found that the benefits of being within the EU "significantly outweigh" the costs.

"UK business is pragmatic and realistic," Mr Cridland told Sky News on Sunday. "Half our exports go to the EU. We need the single market."

The BBC's business correspondent Joe Lynam said: "EU membership may be a prickly political football, but when it comes to whether membership is profitable, the CBI membership is in no doubt that Britain should remain in. Of course, that support is contingent on real reform of EU structures and especially what employers consider unnecessary red tape and meddling.

"That the main business group is wholeheartedly in favour of staying in, will be welcomed by moderate thinkers within Downing Street. The real issue though will be whether these views alienate or resonate with the wider public's view."

The comments come after the group suggested the UK economy was recovering at a "slow and steady" pace.

'Not spectacular recovery'

The CBI predicts growth this year of 1.4%, up from the 1.2% forecast in August, following a strong third-quarter performance.

It then expects a growth rate of 2.4% in 2014.

"The recovery that started in the service sector has fanned out to manufacturing and construction," Mr Cridland said.

Latest official figures showed that the UK's economy grew by 0.8% between July and September, with the Office for National Statistics saying there had been a "fairly strong" performance across all sectors.

"The UK is now set fair for growth with confidence returning to Britain's entrepreneurs," Mr Cridland added.

"The recovery won't be spectacular, just slow and steady, but appears more solid and better-rooted."

On Friday, a closely-watched survey added to signs of strength in UK manufacturing as the latest Markit/CIPS Purchasing Managers' Index indicated the sector had continued to grow strongly in October.

Despite speculation among some analysts that interest rates may rise sooner than expected due to the stronger economic growth, the CBI said that it still expected rates to stay at record lows until 2015.

"We expect unemployment to come down relatively slowly over the medium-term, as hours worked increase and productivity begins to recover. Consequently, the CBI expects Bank rate to remain on hold in 2014 and 2015," it said.

Bank of England policymakers have also spoken out in an attempt to dampen expectations of a rate increase in the near future.

Under the policy of forward guidance, the Bank has said that it will not consider raising interest rates until the unemployment rate has fallen to 7% or below.

The latest unemployment figures showed that the jobless rate stood at 7.7% in the June-to-August period.